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When curating a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. The honour has left the owners completely astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks a family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble restaurant achieving such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.